I hope you’ve had a wonderful time in the valley so far. Next up we’ll be visiting El Capitan or El Cap as rock climbers call it. Nowadays, climbers flock to El Cap from around the world. But our story goes back to the 1950’s when rock climbing in Yosemite was just starting to take off. 

Back in those days, a rivalry simmered between two prominent climbers  and their different philosophies. On the left we have the clean-cut Royal Robbins. He’s a ‘free climber,’ taking on climbs in a single go, using only the gear necessary to prevent a fatal fall and preserve the rock face. And on the right we have Warren Harding, with his greasy, wild hair and trusty jug of wine, see? And in case you’re wondering, he’s not related to 29th President Warren G. Harding. This Harding was an ‘aid climber,’ using ropes and pitons, or hand-drilled bolts, to aid his climb, altering the rock face in the process.

In July 1957, at the age of 22, Robbins, the free climber, ascended the 2,000 feet of Half Dome in five days. It was the first ever ascent of Half Dome’s Northwest Face–that’s the sheer side you see in the valley. But now that Robbins had claimed the title to Half Dome, there was only one thing for Harding to do: be the first to climb El Capitan. The “ROCK CLIMBER RUMBLE” had begun. (kinda like “Rumble in the Jungle” with Mohamed Ali, remember?)

Now, Up to this point, climbers had kinda ignored El Cap. I mean, when we get there, just look at it! It doesn’t seem climbable. Harding began his siege of El Capitan in Spring 1958. His team of aid climbers tackled a couple hundred feet at a time, securing pitons and ropes in the cliff face. Then they’d climb down, and come back another day with more equipment. Sometimes they’d spend nights hanging off the rock, or find a large crack in  the wall to lay or sit on, with their feet dangling over the edge. My palms are getting sweaty just thinking about it.

Progress was slow, and there was a problem: winter was on its way. But they were so close! Finally, Harding said to his team, “let’s go up there and stay with it until we finish it, or,  it finishes us.”

The final climb was on November 1, 1958. A crew member, assigned to resupply Harding’s team, got a late start. He arrived where he expected to find Harding only to find a note saying that they’d gone up. He reached the team in the nick of time–they’d run out of bolts and couldn’t continue. They spent the night securing the last pitons and, just as the sun came up, they reached the top of El Capitan. In total, it took Harding 45 non-consecutive days to make the ascent. 

You will see a small parking area on the right for those who want to walk to the base of El Capitan. But for most people, the best view is from the El Capitan Meadow down the road. Stay in the right lane. I’ll point it out to you when  we get closer. If you’re returning to Yosemite Village, you want to follow the sign, and turn left ahead.

Want more stories like this?

Find more on our Yosemite National Park tour.